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The Nomadic Life

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  • December 8 - The Nomadic Life
    This is Pipeline as viewed from the Backdoor side. If you were here in the late ‘60s, you might have seen a towheaded Bunker Spreckels pull into one of these tubes. Bunker was among the first to go right at what at the time was known vaguely as “Pipeline rights.” There are not many breaks that carry this odd distinction: You go left, it’s “Pipeline.” You go right and it’s “Backdoor.”
    By Jamie Brisick
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  • November 22 - The Nomadic Life
    "Taylor is just so honest and even. He’s not a flash."- Art Brewer If surfing is a language then Taylor Knox’s rail game is a searing patois. Watch him screech off the bottom at J-Bay. Hear him chwaa into a roundhouse cutback to backside lip whack at Lower Trestles. Feel the ancient Polynesia of his spray as he eviscerates a big, meaty, bouncy wall at Haleiwa. Taylor’s career highlights include a win in the inaugural K-2 Big Wave Challenge in 1998 and a 4th place ranking on the ASP…
    By Jamie Brisick
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  • November 15 - The Nomadic Life
    "You’ve been a beacon of truth, light, knowledge, and determination for all of your surfing brothers" - Kelly Slater Said Kelly Slater on Instagram on the evening of Dorian Paskowitz’s passing in 2014: “Blessings to you, Dorian #DocPaskowitz. You’ve been a beacon of truth, light, knowledge, and determination for all of your surfing brothers…He was passionate about diet and exercise but his biggest wish was to see peace in Gaza between Israel and Palestine and always believed that…
    By Jamie Brisick
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  • November 7 - The Nomadic Life
    "Archy just tore it apart" - Art Brewer I was fortunate to grow up alongside Matt Archbold, one of the most electric surfers of the ‘80s and ‘90s. He rode with a cocked front arm that traces back to Cheyne Horan, Michael Peterson, Miki Dora, and probably some Polynesian wave slider circa 1700s—and traces forward to 2016 World Surf League Champion John John Florence. He favored the mid-face man-carve made popular in recent years by Dane Reynolds. He surfed with brute power and wild…
    By Jamie Brisick
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  • November 1 - The Nomadic Life
    "We’ll fucken go kidnap him!" - Maurice Cole In 1987, Tom Curren was enjoying the first of his three world titles and Art Brewer was traveling around the world shooting photos for Surfer magazine. Tom was famously private. Art was a master of “getting the shot.” On a sunny eight-foot day at Backdoor with Tom pulling into the barrel and Art shooting from the beach they connected easily. In other circumstances, though, it was a little more complicated, as Art explains here—.…
    By Jamie Brisick
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  • October 19 - The Nomadic Life
    “I always loved the act of surfing and shooting it, but I was really drawn to the surfers as people,” says photographer Art Brewer. “The magazines never really delved into the personalities, they delved into the surfers surfing. For me it was sort of like peeling away the onion.” Brewer was 17 when he shot his first Surfer magazine cover in 1968. That sent him on an odyssey of wild waves, exotic locales, and eccentric characters. “I had an inside window into it,” he says. “I did a really…
    By Jamie Brisick
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  • October 17 - The Nomadic Life
    The photographs of Art Brewer have been captivating the surf world for half a century. His action, portrait, travel, and lifestyle images have been such a force that there’s a “tail wagging dog” thing at play—while at first he may have been merely documenting surf culture, after a decade or so his documentation started influencing surf culture. Every great surfer from, say, the ‘80s onward would have spent time with Art’s iconic imagery—a towheaded Bunker Spreckels sitting behind his…
    By Jamie Brisick
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  • October 26 - The Nomadic Life
    Six questions & six answers, 'The Nomadic Life' is a series featuring our favorite adventurers from around the world. Our 7th installment focuses on Canadian photographer Myles McGinness. Where did you grow up & how did you become interested in documenting travel? I was raised on a blend of snow and salt water. From as long as I can remember I’ve been in love with the mountains and the ocean. I was born in the Appalachian Mountains of West Virginia, and then raised in California, Texas,…
    By Zak Bush
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  • August 8 - The Nomadic Life
    Six questions & six answers, 'The Nomadic Life' is a series featuring our favorite adventurers from around the world. Our 7th installment focuses on Canadian photographer Jeremy Koreski and a rare edit of his 35mm film photography. 1. What sparked your interest in exploring, how did photography get into the mix? Jeremy Koreski: My interest in exploring came from growing up in place like Clayoquot Sound, a small town on Vancouver Island on the west coast of Canada with parents that were…
    By Zak Bush
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  • I grew up in a seaside town called Bulli about an hour south of the hustle and bustle of Sydney, Australia. We’re separated by The Royal National Park, the second oldest national park in the world behind Yellowstone. It’s the perfect buffer zone from the busiest city in the country, beautiful mountains that lead into the sea. A knee injury led me to pick up my first camera in 2007, it was a blessing in disguise that changed my life. I was immobile for several months so I just read the…
    By Zak Bush
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  • April 12 - The Nomadic Life
    Six questions & six answers, 'The Nomadic Life' is a series featuring our favorite adventurers from around the world. Our fifth installment focuses on filmmaker, photographer, musician and director Saam Gabbay. 1. Where did you grow up and who introduced you to photography? SG: My father essentially lost his tech and gear privacy when I was born. From the moment I started walking I raided his stuff, fist making it to the 8-track player, then the reel-to-reel and piano and ending at…
    By Zak Bush
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  • December 3 - The Nomadic Life
    "in 2010 I decided to make a 180 degree turn in my life, grab my backpack and surfboards and simply leave for Africa." - Kepa Acero. Six questions & six answers, 'The Nomadic Life' is a series featuring our favorite adventurers from around the world. Our fourth installment focuses on solo adventurer Kepa Acero. 1. I follow your amazing Instagram feed and love your solo pursuits to the edges of the globe in search perfect waves.
    By Zak Bush
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  • November 2 - The Nomadic Life
    "I started traveling at an early age with my parents, they brought my sisters and I pretty much wherever they went. Much of our travel followed my parents interest in meditation." - Kanoa Zimmerman. Six questions & six answers, 'The Nomadic Life' is a series featuring our favorite adventurers from around the world. Our second installment focuses on photographer and adventurer Kanoa Zimmerman. 1. When did you start traveling exploring? Who introduced you to photography?
    By Zak Bush
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  • October 6 - The Nomadic Life
    "It all started as a skier on the U.S. Ski Team. We’d race, train and live all over Europe, Chile, New Zealand and throughout the U.S. This ignited my passion for travel. My mother is a photographer and was always teaching us to pay attention to the beauty of light. Merging travel and photography came naturally." Our second installment of The Nomadic Life focuses on photographer and former professional skier Lauren Ross...
    By Zak Bush
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  • September 28 - The Nomadic Life
    "I grew up splitting time with my mom at home in the Pacific Northwest and my Dad in Hawai'i, so nature has played a huge part in not only my imagery, but my life in general. So I’m not sure if it was a sparked interest, or just more of a longtime love and respect for where I’m from. You think of the PNW as a whole, and you could literally spend an entire lifetime exploring this area and still not see it all." The Nomadic Life is a series featuring our favorite adventurers from around…
    By Zak Bush
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